Sulawesi and Halmahera
Friday 7th September – Thursday 27th September 2012
The province of Sulawesi in Indonesia is an oddly-shaped four-legged island lying to the east of Borneo and west of New Guinea. More importantly it is east of the famous Wallace's line, an imaginary boundary between distinct faunal regions and is the largest of the Wallacean islands with an avifauna totally distinct from the Greater Sundas to the west. Sulawesi has the largest number of endemic bird species of any Indonesian island with up to 70 currently recognised. Halmahera is the largest of the Moluccas or fabled Spice Islands and lies just a short distance to the east. It has a totally different avifauna with 24 endemics and has affinities more with the Australasian region and is home to the fabulous Wallace's Standardwing, one of the most bizarre Birds-of-Paradise. Join us on this endemic rich and fun-filled ZOOTHERA tour that will leave you longing to return!
Sulawesi Masked Owl
Day 1 UK - Jakarta - 7th September
Overnight flight from UK to Jakarta.
Days 2 - 3 Jakarta (Java) - Lore Lindu NP (Sulawesi)
Upon arrival in Jakarta you will be picked up at the airport and transferred to a nearby hotel for an overnight stay. From Jakarta we will take a morning flight to Palu in western Sulawesi and then drive across the lowlands to Lore Lindu and along the way we can see some typical lowland birds such as White-shoulder Triller, Sooty-headed and perhaps Yellow-vented Bulbul, Gerygone, Olive-backed Sunbird, Grey-sided Flowerpecker, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, and maybe Savanna Nightjar, Black-faced and Pale-headed Munias amongst others. Eventually we will arrive in the late afternoon at Lore Lindu National Park where we will check in to our lodge for a 4 night stay.
Days 4 - 6 Lore Lindu National Park (Sulawesi)
Lore Lindu is not only the largest but undoubtedly the most productive of all the national parks in Sulawesi. There are a diverse range of habitats here from tranquil lowland rainforest to densely forested, rugged mountains up to 2509m, which makes this particular area so rich in birdlife, with a large number of Sulawesi's endemics present. We will concentrate on the upper reaches of the mountains to begin with, where the forest is mostly intact and where we will look for some localised endemics which usually associate in large, mixed flocks. The rather strange Malia is usualy quite conspicuous, along with Sulawesi Leaf-warbler, Caerulean and Pygmy Cuckooshrikes, Sulawesi Drongo and Piping Crow. We'll also search for Citrine and Blue-fronted Flycatchers, Island Verditer, Yellow-vented Whistler, Hylocitrea, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker, Mountain White-eye, Streak-headed Dark-eye and possibly Blue-faced Parrotfinch, all of which can be caught up in these roving flocks. We can also find Small Sparrowhawk in these higher areas, along with Yellow-and-Green and Ornate Lorikeets, Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, Scarlet Honeyeater (sometimes treated as a distinct species, Sulawesi Myzomela), Fiery-browed Myna, and Mountain Serin. Patches of lowland forest hold a number of specialities such as Jerdon's Baza, Sulawesi Serpent-eagle, Sulawesi Cicadabird, Sulawesi Triller, Short-tailed Starling, Sulawesi Crested Myna and Lemon-bellied White-eye. On the lower slopes we will also search for Barred Honey-buzzard, the incredible Purple-bearded Bee-eater and Golden-mantled Racquet-tail. Flowering and fruiting trees are usually very productive and give us our best chance of seeing both Lesser and Greater Sulawesi Honeyeaters, as well as White-bellied and Grey-headed Imperial-pigeons, Superb and Red-eared Fruit-doves and Brown Cuckoo-dove. Of course we will also look for the secretive, skulking and hard-to-see species such as the shy Sulawesi Mountain Thrush, Great Shortwing and Chestnut-backed Bush-warbler. Other species possible during our stay include Cinnamon Bittern, Platen's Rail, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Spotted Kestrel, Sulawesi Ground-dove, Sulawesi Hawk-cuckoo, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Gould's Bronze-cuckoo, Purple Needletail, Moluccan Swiftlet, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, Knobbed Hornbill, Geomalia, Pygmy Cuckooshrike, Blue-fronted, Island and Rufous-throated Flycatchers, Sulawesi Blue-flycatcher, Mountain Tailorbird, Olive-backed, Black and Crimson Sunbirds, Greater Streaked Honeyeater, Maroon-backed Whistler, Asian Glossy Starling, and both Sulawesi and Fiery-browed Mynas. Night birding can be productive with some real quality species to find such as Sulawesi Scops-owl, Speckled and Cinnabar Boobooks, Sulawesi Masked Owl, and the poorly known Satanic Nightjar. On Day 6 we will return to Palu for the night.
Day 7 Lore Lindu - Makassar (Sulawesi)
After a final morning's birding we will depart around midday and head to the airport where we will fly down to Makassar. Night at Makassar.
Day 8 Makassar – Karaenta Forest - Manado (Sulawesi)
Karaenta Forest is a series of remnant forest patches on limestone outcrops. This is a very good area for the rare endemic Black-ringed (White-eye) Dark-eye, a species confined to southern Sulawesi. Other species here include Red-backed Buttonquail, Sulawesi Woodpecker, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Sulawesi Babbler, Pale-blue Monarch, Black Sunbird, and both Yellow-sided and Grey-sided Flowerpeckers. Afterwards we can visit an area of fish ponds and wet paddies that is productive for a number of wetland species including Javan Pond-heron, Sunda Teal, White-headed Stilt, Terek Sandpiper, Long-toed and Red-necked Stints, Pacific Golden Plover, Australian Pratincole, and there is always the chance of finding a rarer wader or two. In the afternoon we will fly to Manado and drive to Kotamobagu where we will stay for the next three nights at a comfortable hotel.
Days 9 - 11 Gunung Ambang NP - Dumoga Bone - Tambun - Manado
After breakfast we will drive to the montane forest of Gunung Ambang National Park in search of some of Sulawesi's least known and rarest species. Our primary target is the localised Matinan Flycatcher, which only inhabits the Minahasa Peninsular here in northeast Sulawesi. If we are lucky, then we may have an encounter with the elusive Scaly-breasted Kingfisher, Cinnabar Hawk-owl or the seldom-seen Sombre Pigeon. Other possibilities here include Grey-cheeked Pigeon, Superb Fruit-dove, White-bellied Imperial-pigeon, Yellow-and-green Lorikeet, Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Sulawesi Bush-warbler, Citrine Canary-flycatcher, Sulawesi Babbler, Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker, Rusty-flanked Fantail and others. At night we will make a special effort to find Cinnabar Hawk-owl.
We will also have an early start to reach the core area of Dumoga Bone National Park. The habitat here is primarily lowland rainforest but is surrounded by mountains with some good montane forest cloaking the lower slopes. Amongst a good selection of species we will look for Rufous Night-heron, Wandering Whistling-duck, Sunda Teal, Comb-crested Jacana, Lesser Fish-eagle, Spotted Harrier, Buff-banded and Barred Rails, White-browed Crake, Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail, White-faced Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Ground-dove, Maroon-chinned Fruit-dove, both Large and Small Sulawesi Hanging-parrots,Sulawesi Triller, Green-backed Kingfisher, Pied Cuckooshrike, White-backed Woodswallow and Black-faced Munia amongst others. This is also our last chance of catching up with Sulawesi Owl, Sulawesi Scops-owl and Speckled Hawk-owl. In the afternoon we will visit a very special site where Maleo comes down from the hill forest to lay their single eggs in the volcanic soil or to roost around their breeding grounds. Here we may also see Purple-winged Roller, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Sulawesi Triller and White-necked Myna, whilst in the evening there are chances for Great-eared and Sulawesi Nightjars.
Another early morning will see us back at Tambun in order to improve upon yesterday's views of Maleo or simply to enjoy these birds once again. From here we will continue our birding at Tapak Kolintang or Toraut, depending on which species we still need. In the evening of Day 10 we will arrive at a fine hotel in Manado.
Days 12 - 14 Manado - Tangkoko Nature Reserve
From here we proceed to Tangkoko National Park for a 3 night stay. This is a special place with much of the lowland forest remaining intact and we will explore the whole area on foot following a network of trails in search of a number of Sulawesi endemics and specialities. This is THE place to find a number of highly sought-after kingfishers, with Ruddy, Lilac-cheeked, Green-backed and Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfishers all possible. We will need to take a local palmboat into the mangroves to have any chance of the huge Black-billed Kingfisher, and there is also the added bonus of a day-roosting Sulawesi Masked Owl as well. Amongst a large list of very special birds we will search for Isabelline Bush-hen, Sulawesi Hawk-eagle, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Maroon-chinned and Black-naped Fruit-doves, Grey-cheeked Green-pigeon, White and Silver-tipped Imperial-pigeons, White-faced Cuckoo-dove, Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Yellow-breasted and Golden-mantled Racquet-tails, Ornate Lorikeet, Blue-backed Parrot, Large Sulawesi Hanging-parrot, Black-billed Koel, Bay Coucal, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Purple-winged Roller, Sulawesi Dwarf and Knobbed Hornbills, Ashy Woodpecker, Elegant Pitta, White-rumped Cuckooshrike, Red-backed Thrush, Pale-blue Monarch, Sulawesi Babbler, Grosbeak Starling, and White-necked Myna. This bird-rich area is also home to a huge variety of more widespread species such as Great-billed Heron, Pacific Reef-egret, Osprey, Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea-eagle, Sulawesi Goshawk, Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Tabon Scrubfowl, Black-naped Tern, Azure-rumped Parrot, Pygmy Hanging-parrot, Lesser Coucal, Stephan's Dove, Glossy and Uniform Swiftlets, Grey-rumped Treeswifts, Red-bellied and Hooded Pittas, White-breasted Woodswallow, Pied Cuckooshrike, Cicadabird, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Black-naped Oriole, Flyeater, Plain-throated Sunbird, Hair-crested Drongo, Slender-billed Crow, and both White-necked and Finch-billed Mynas. Once the sun has set we will have the opportunity to search for Sulawesi Nightjar, Ochre-bellied Boobook and Sulawesi Scops-owl. Nights at Tangkoko.
Days 15 - 18 Ternate - Sidangoli (Halmahera)
After checking out a site for Yellow-bellied White-eye we will take a flight to the small island of Ternate, which is located just off the west coast of Halmahera. Dominated by a smoking volcano which rises to 1700m, we will jump aboard a speedboat to take us across the bay to Sidangoli in the north of Halmahera. During the short crossing we need to keep our eyes open for a few seabirds which could include Lesser Frigatebird, Brown Booby, Great Crested and Bridled Terns, and sometimes even Bulwer's Petrel. Halmahera is the largest of the famous ‘Spice Islands' and its position far to the east of the Wallace Line means there is a rather Australasian influence to the avifauna. Our base for the next 4 nights will be Sidangoli.
As in many areas of south-east Asia the habitat is becomingly increasingly degraded, yet Sidangoli is still teeming with birdlife. Very early on our first morning we will visit the display area of Wallace's Standardwing, an extraordinary bird of paradise and not only is this endemic but is exceedingly rare and only found in a few special forests. We will need to be in position before sunrise to witness the spectacular courtship display where several males call loudly, sticking out their brilliant white standards in the hope of attracting a female. We will also target the stunning Ivory-breasted Pitta, the bizarre Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, and our second bird of paradise, Paradise Crow.
The rest of our time here will be spent in search of Pacific Baza, Moluccan Goshawk, Variable Goshawk, Gurney's Eagle, Dusky Scrubfowl, Nicobar Pigeon, Blue-capped and Grey-headed Fruit-Doves, Cinnamon-bellied Imperial-pigeon, White Cockatoo, Chattering Lory, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Red-cheeked, Great-billed and Eclectus Parrots, Moluccan Hanging-parrot, Goliath Coucal, Moluccan Scops-owl, Moluccan Hawk-owl, Halmahera Swiftlet, Moustached Treeswift, Blue-and-White, Sombre and Beach Kingfishers, Common Paradise-Kingfisher, Rainbow Bee-eater, Purple Roller, Blyth's Hornbill, Moluccan Cuckoo-shrike, Rufous-bellied Triller, Golden Bulbul, Slaty and Spectacled Monarchs, Shining Flycatcher, Golden and Drab Whistlers, Flame-breasted Flowerpecker, Cream-throated White-eye, White-streaked and Dusky Friarbirds, Halmahera Oriole, and Metallic and Moluccan Starlings amongst others.
Day 19 Sidangoli – Tobelo (Halmahera)
After spending a few hours chasing any species we may still need, we will head north to Tobelo. After checking in to our hotel we will visit a nearby beach for our target species, the rare Moluccan Scrubfowl. These globally-threatened and shy birds come to the beach at night to lay their eggs but numbers vary and a certain amount of luck is needed to spotlight one!
Day 20 Ternate - Jakarta (Java)
An early start will see us heading across the harbour to Ternate before driving to a nearby area where we can see Great-billed Parrot before heading back to the airport and our afternoon flight back to Jakarta in order to connect with our onward international flight back to the UK.
Day 21 End of Tour - 27th September
Arrival in the Uk and end of the tour.
Leaders: Nick Bray & local guides.
Single supplement: £300.00
Group size: Minimum for tour to go ahead 5 and maximum 9 with 2 leaders
Included in cost: Accommodation in twin rooms mostly en-suite, all meals including picnic lunches where necessary, domestic flights, all entrance fees to National Parks, transport throughout in air-conditioned vehicles, boat trips, and services of leaders.
Not included: International airfare, insurance, visa fee upon arrival, departure taxes, excess luggage charges, drinks, tips and items of a personal nature.
Accommodation: Ranges from good to very good. We will stay in the best available lodge/guest house close to the birding sites we visit to cut-out the necessity of any long drives before reaching the best birding areas each day. Please note that we have upgraded several hotels from the 2011 tour to ensure your stay is going to be as comfortable as possible.
Tour Code: This is a relatively adventurous tour where early starts and some late finishes when owling, can be expected. Usually there is some time off during the middle of the day to relax. Most of our birding walks will be of a usual slow pace and relatively easy, apart from one excursion at Lore Lindu and when visiting the standardwing lek at Sidangoli. Expect a typically tropical climate with most days being hot and humid, with the montane areas being much cooler and some rain can be expected.
View Tour Itinerary as a Pdf. 2011 Tour Gallery. 2011 Tour Report.
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Lore Lindu is a great place to start the tour!