BRAZIL: BEST OF AMAZONIA TOUR REPORT 15th July - 29th July 2022

Days 1 - 2  ARRIVAL IN MANAUS

This day and a half saw the group meet up, apart from myself, and bird some areas close to Manaus including the MUSA Tower and some nearby trails. The group then left for Novo Airao and our base for the next couple of nights. Highlights from the start of the trip include Variegated Tinamou, Rufous and White-winged Potoo, Yellow-billed Jacamar, Todd's Sirystes, Golden-headed Manakin, Red-billed Pied Tanager, White-lored Euphonia and others.

Day 3   NOVO AIRAO - ANAVILHANAS NATIONAL PARK

So I finally caught up with my group after a protracted journey from Uganda and missing my connecting flight to Manaus from Sao Paulo resulting in a 2.30am arrival at the lodge near Novo Airao. Breakfast at 5am hurt a bit but we were scheduled for a morning boat excursion inside Anavilhanus National Park along the massive Rio Negro. With a beautiful red sunrise and Band-tailed Nighthawks all around we turned off the main river into a side channel where we spent most of the morning, notching up a delightful selection of Amazonian and more widespread species. Our excellent driver manoeuvred our boat with such skill between trees as we traversed through flooded varzea forest all morning and it was a real treat to be able to see so many excellent birds. We began in a more open area with a brief Sungrebe, followed by a flurry of activity very close in front of us with Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Amazonian Inezia, Black-crested Antshrike, Cherrie’s Antwren, Blue-tailed Emerald, Red-capped Cardinal, Slender-footed Tyrannulet, Short-crested Flycatcher, Striped and Long-billed Woodcreepers, Greater Ani, flyover Plumbeous Kite, Festive Parrots, and numerous Yellow-rumped Caciques. We’d already seen our first of several Pink River Dolphins before moving to another area just inside the forest where a stunning Green-tailed Jacamar was posing beautifully, and where we saw the key endemic target Klage’s Antwren, as well as Leaden Antwren, Crested Oropendola, Black-chinned Antbird, Zimmer’s Woodcreeper, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Blackish-grey Antshrike, a superb Common Potoo, Cinnamon Attila, Ash-breasted Antbird, and a flighty Varzea Schiffornis. Moving across into a different section of flooded forest, we came across the delightfully named Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant close by and just before entering the arena of displaying Wire-tailed Manakins. These stunningly beautiful birds were all around us and looked for all the world like tiny red and yellow light bulbs in the gloomy forest. A Brown-throated Sloth provided some non-avian distraction at the same spot, and our excellent local guide Pablo called in a Speckled Spinetail here also. Nearby we visited a lek of Streak-throated Hermits that took some time for everyone to see well enough before we returned to the main channel, seeing a real wild Muscovy Duck and we followed this with several Plumbeous Kites and a Great Black Hawk overhead before returning to our waiting minibus. Amazingly it was 10.30am when we returned to the lodge, lunch was at 11.30am and we departed for our afternoon boat excursion at 3pm, leaving several hours for a sleep and a little birding in the large gardens.

Some decent birds were seen in the gardens, with pride of place going to a flock of Orange-fronted Yellow Finches, but there was also Variegated Flycatcher, Silver-beaked, Palm and Blue-grey Tanagers as well to keep the hardy amongst us busy. The afternoon was a little quieter as we searched for a couple of greenlets without success. But there were many other trip ticks and decent birds beginning with Swallow-wing Puffbird, White-winged Swallows were numerous, both Grey-breasted  and Brown-chested Martins, Short-tailed and Band-rumped Swifts, a few Ringed Kingfishers, Hook-billed Kite, Swallow-tailed Kite, Orange-winged Parrots flew over, a group of Black-fronted Nunbirds provided quite the cacophony, Screaming Piha perched high up, Blue Dacnis, Squirrel Cuckoo, Green-backed Trogon, Yellow-headed Caracara, White-throated Toucans, Orange-cheeked Parrots, another Amazonian Inezia, a pair of Paradise Jacamars, a group of 3 Ivory-billed Aracaris and a Bat Falconhunting along the main river. We ended with many Band-tailed Nighthawks cruising by to end the day as we had begun and with a stunning sunset as well. What a day!

Day 4  NOVO AIRAO - MANACAPURU

Headed to a nearby secondary forest after a 5am breakfast and walked along a fairly flat trail with dense secondary forest on either side. First bird we had was a pair of Black-faced Antbirds that took a while for everyone to connect with. A White-cheeked Antbird began calling whilst we were here and showed briefly, with a calling Dusky Parrot high overhead also being seen. Just around the corner a very vocal Yellow-browed Antbird was coaxed into view and he spent most of the time in the mid-canopy. A group of 3 White-fronted Nunbirds flew over us and landed in a bare section of a large tree beside the trail, before we well and truly nailed Cinerous Antshrike, followed by a cracking Pearly Antshrike. A Long-winged Antwren followed and shortly after we found two pairs of diminutive Rio Negro Stipplethroats right beside the trail. Higher up we saw a few female Blue-crowned Manakins, and then Chris found a pair of White-flanked Antwrens. A little later, at the end of the trail, our patience was eventually rewarded with prolonged scope views of a singing Musician Wren – who does that?! The walk back to the minibus was quick as we hadn’t actually walked any more than a kilometre the entire 5 hours but we did find Waved Woodpecker and a Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper. High over the trail a fruiting tree was enticing a couple Paradise Tanagers, Spotted Tanager, Streaked Flycatcher, several Purple Honeycreepers and some more female Blue Manakins.

After lunch at the lodge we drove 2 hours to our next accommodation in Manacapura, which turned out to be something of a resort – much to our surprise. Anyway, at 3pm we all met up and began walking one of the many trails that can be found here. It was really hot and humid and within a few minutes we our shirts were beginning to get soaked with sweat. A tiny Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin took our minds off the humidity but it was slow going. We walked probably 3 kilometres at most and found activity to be slow all the way, with a Grey Antbird high overhead, a pair of Paradise Jacamars, a skulking Collared Gnatwren, Mouse-coloured Antshrike and a Yellow-throated Woodpecker the highlights. It was a relief to return to our air-conditioned rooms at 6pm for a warm shower but having a few beers in the restaurant to quench our thirst helped a lot!

Day 5  MANACAPURU - MANAUS    

Our day began at 5.45am as we waited in the grounds of the lodge for daylight and in particular for Fiery Topaz to show at it’s lek site. Well thankfully the birds performed on cue and at least one astonishingly brightly-plumaged male showed incredibly well right in front of us. There was also a female and an immature male present as well. Wow! As we walked to the dining area the gardens became alive with birds and in pretty quick fashion we saw Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Red-bellied Amazon, Sulphury Flycatcher, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, and a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. After an excellent breakfast we were ready to hit the trails but not before a few Chestnut-eared Aracaris flew in and landed nearby, and as we watched them a Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet was spotted  and some Short-tailed Swifts bombed overhead. The trails were quiet again and the humidity was high but we still managed to dig out a few good birds beginning with a Brownish Twistwing that incredibly everyone saw quite well. A Reddish Hermit feeding on a bright crimson bromeliad disturbed our concentration from a calling Brown Schiffornis, but it was the Lined Forest-Falcon that well and truly diverted our attention from the not-so-delightful schiffornis.  The falcon flew over our heads twice before landing in full view high up in the canopy. Oh yes! Further along the trail a Ringed Woodpecker pecked at something on a bare branch right over the trail, a female White-crowned Manakin was a little uninspiring, a Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher was seen along with a Plain-brown Woodcreeper to round off our morning’s birding.

We had an hour to shower away the sweat and pack before lunch and then drove back towards Manaus and our next hotel for 2 nights. Along the way we stopped at a wetland, which proved to be surprisingly good and we added numerous species to our ever growing lists. We nailed Tui and White-winged Parakeets, with a few Short-tailed Parrots feeding in a cecropia tree nearby. A Yellow-headed Caracara flushed over 30 Sand-coloured Nighthawks from their rooftop roost and were absolutely stunning in flight. A White-throated Kingbird was pointed out by Pablo, a Savannah Hawk flew over, and there was also Orange-backed Troupial, Yellow-browed Sparrow, Lesser Hornero, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, some Orange-fronted Yellow-Finches, River Tyrannulet, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, many, many Smooth-billed Ani and a flyover Southern Lapwing. All that remained was to drive half an hour to our downtown Manaus hotel where we reached it at 5pm allowing us a leisurely evening, good food and just a few very cold beers!

Day 6  MARCHANTERIA ISLAND - PRESIDENTE FIGUEREDO

Drove some 30 minutes to Manaus port where we boarded our boat for a trip over to Marchanteria Island. This isn’t an ‘island’ as you think of it…. Oh no, it’s a series of flooded areas with cecropia trees and flooded grassland under 6 feet of water and is where a number of Amazonian island specialists reside. The Amazon river at this point is well over a mile across and it’s phenomenal to be honest. Anyway, we managed to find a very good number of the key target species with Red-and-white Spinetail, Rusty-backed Spinetail, White-bellied Spinetail, Dark-breasted Spinetail, Amazonian Black-Tyrant, Brownish Elaenia, Black-and-white Antbird, the rare Green-throated Mango, and eventually everyone saw Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant (this race is a potential split). A fine supporting cast provided us with a many and varied list for this morning and here’s just a little selection: Buff-necked Ibis, Collared Plover, Black Skimmer, Large-billed Tern, Black-collared Hawk, Snail Kite, Amazon Kingfisher, White-winged Parakeet, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Black-bellied Cuckoo, River Tyrannulet, Oriole Blackbird, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Yellow-browed Sparrow and Lined Seedeater. The journey back to port was a bit interesting as the wind picked up and it was like sailing out in the ocean with large waves buffeting our small boat!

After lunch in a nice restaurant we drove to a trail, stopping at some roadside flowering trees that Pablo knew held the stunning Crimson Topaz. Sure enough we had views of a cracking male, along with Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Long-billed Starthroat, Black-throated Mango, with several Red-bellied Macaws flying past and landing nearby.

The trail wasn’t far away and it started off quite well with Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Channel-billed Toucan, Chivi Vireo and Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch. We came across a small flock that held Fulvous-crested and Turquoise Tanagers and we followed this with White-throated Toucan before finding an outstandingly beautiful Pompadour Cotinga feeding in a fruiting tree. Wow! A Yellow-green Grosbeak was next up, followed by Black-tailed Tityra and Guianan Trogon before the forest suddenly got really quiet. The next hour or so was slow going until we found a Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Long-billed Gnatwren, Guianan Warbling Antbird, Guianan Puffbird and a Black-throated Trogon. So not a bad day!

Day 7    ZF2 TOWER

This was a much-anticipated day as we were visiting the famous ZF2 canopy tower. It was something of a surprise when our local guide, Pablo, told us last night that we’d need to check out of the hotel at 3.30am bags and all..!! Ouch! Well, we did and were on the road pretty promptly heading more or less in a northerly direction out of Manaus for about 75 minutes before pulling over on a side road. Here a trio of 4-wheel drive trucks were waiting to meet us and take us to the tower. It was an interesting 40 minute drive through the forest as the dirt road was very muddy and slippery and several timers we went sideways as the wheels lost traction, but we all made it unscathed in the end. We had a picnic breakfast at the base of the tower and waited for it to get light before walking up to the top of the 42-metre canopy tower, only to find the whole area enshrouded in mist. A frustrating hour followed as the light gradually increased and the mist thinned out a little. The first bird of the day seen was a pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers almost directly below us, followed by scope views of several calling White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans. Then Pablo drew our attention to a very close Glossy-backed Becard in the canopy of a tree right next to the tower and was almost at eye-level. A flurry of activity ensued with male Black-faced Dacnis, Golden-winged Parakeet in the scope, a close calling Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, and a superb Ash-winged Antwren. Phew! Then a Guianan Toucanet was scoped, quickly followed by a Southern Mealy Amazon. Another quick flurry of new sightings followed with Yellow-throated Flycatcher, White-lored Tyrannulet, close Flame-crested Tanager, a male Black-capped Becard, Olive-green Tyrannulet, and a fine male Spot-backed Antwren. Pausing for breath we noticed the swifts flying around us at eye-level didn’t have pale rumps and were Chapman’s Swifts, and whilst watching them a Versicoloured Emerald was spotted feeding around a flowering tree below us. David scoped a pair of Blue-headed Parrots shortly after, before Pablo called in a superb Painted Tody-Flycatcher into one of the trees closest to us and just before a group of Marail Guans were found – and they eventually provided fantastic looks through the scope. The activity slowed down somewhat from 9am but a steady stream of notable sightings kept us going, and next up was a Grey Elaenia, followed by Paradise Tanager, and the first of many, many Pompadour Cotingas. A great pair of Golden-collared Woodpeckers appeared below us, along with a Yellow-throated Woodpecker, and just before one of the closet trees yielded Guianan Tyrannulet and Zimmer’s (Yellow-margined) Flatbill. A distant Red-throated Caracara was scoped before a group of Green Aracaris appeared, and David spotted both King Vulture and White Hawk perched in the canopy at some distance away. Pablo called in Black Nunbird, several Red-and-green Macaws flew around, a Double-toothed Kite soared overhead, Paradise Jacamar was scoped, a Black-bellied Cuckoo showed well along with a Yellow-green Grosbeak. But the star bird was undoubtedly Crimson Fruitcrow, a pair of which were scoped at length on a forested ridge to the west. What a bird and the cherry on top of a superb morning’s cake!

After an ‘interesting’ drive back along the slippery road we made it to our waiting minibus within 80 minutes and were soon on the road towards Presidente Figueraido, getting delayed by a car accident en-route. So we eventually arrived at our pousada where we’d be staying for the next 3 nights at a little after 2pm and went straight down to the restaurant. Later in the afternoon we walked a short distance out into the forest where we had unbelievably close views of Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. At first we walked past two stunningly bright orange birds within 5 metres of the path who had formed a satellite lek. The main lek was another few hundred metres further on where over 11 males were displaying. It’s an almost unbelievable experience to witness with several males literally sitting on the forest floor and their strange calls echoing through the forest. Wow! We spent some time with these beauties before birding our way the short distance back to the lodge and notched up some really good birds. First of all a Northern Slaty-Antshrike sang above us and allowed good views, then a Bronzy Jacamar gave itself up easily, and we followed this with the bizarre Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin and a Black Manakin. It was just a shame the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t come in. Back at the lodge we enjoyed some cold drinks whilst scanning the fruiting trees at the back of the restaurant where we saw White-necked Thrush and a fantastic Spangled Cotinga enjoying the bounty. Our search for Little Chachalaca proved fruitless but a few flyover Green Oropendolas kept our list ticking over nicely!

Day 8  PRESIDENTE FIGUEREDO

Boy was it a tough, slow morning’s birding today. We left our pousada at 5am and drove for around an hour to a wide forest track that passes through great forest – Pablo has even seen Harpy Eagle here in the past, so it must be good right? Well we started off with a calling Red-throated Caracara and Golden-green Woodpecker, followed by Black-headed Antbird and a cracking female Black-throated Antshrike. Just around the corner a Blackish Nightjar was flying around in broad daylight, but it wasn’t until our return that we found out why, as it had a nest right beside the track with a single egg in. But from here on in we struggled to see much at all. That being said another Crimson Fruitcrow was found in a tree above us and was about a mile closer than the pair from the canopy tower yesterday! The next few hours were hard and all we saw was Yellow-throated and Ruddy-tailed Flycatchers, Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Black-tailed Trogon, Black Nunbird, Chestnut Woodpecker, Bat Falcon, Screaming Piha, White Hawk and a pair of Guianan Puffbirds.

After lunch and a siesta back at the pousada we walked a nearby trail for a few hours and dug out two absolute corkers. First up was a Ferruginous-backed Antbird that walked along a mossy fallen trunk just a few feet away from us, and then a short while later a Wing-banded Wren performed in the same manner. So we headed back for an earlier dinner as it was approaching beer o’clock!

Day 9   PRESIDENTE FIGUEREDO

A singing Bright-rumped Attila was the first bird of the day as we walked to one of the pousada’s trails at 6am, followed by a pair of Guianan Warbling Antbirds and a Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner beside the road. Walking up to the trail we stopped beside a large fruiting tree where several White-throated Manakins were feeding high up above us and we spent some time trying to improve on our views before entering the dark and gloomy trail. This was a little quiet and the only bird of note seen was a Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant, so we returned to the lodge for a great breakfast during which we saw Buff-throated Saltator on the bird table, plus Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, Sulphury Flycatcher, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Spangled Cotinga, and the regular Grey-breasted Sabrewing at the feeder.

Heading out to trails in the white sand forest this afternoon we saw Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin again before getting scorching views of Yellow-crowned Manakin. It was just a shame that the calling Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant didn’t appear again.  We tried the Capuchinbird arena but only heard it.  So after lunch and a rest we tried again for the tody-tyrant without any joy before heading to the Capuchinbird stake-out, but only hearing it distantly once again. A close Spotted Puffbird was at least some form of compensation from our birdless walk so far! So we walked back to the lodge only for Pablo to say he was going to get some help from the lodge and make a path towards where the Capuchinbird was calling from and we were to continue birding. After some time he returned and said he’d found their newly relocated lekking area and if we wanted to see them then we would have to race back as the sun was setting beyond the horizon. So some of us dashed back through the forest and sure enough we did see several very weird-looking Capuchinbirds overhead and heard their weird calls to round off the day.

Day 10   PRESIDENTE FIGUEREDO - MANAUS

Our last day was something of a short one as we had to get Chris & Ian to Manaus airport for early afternoon so we had just a couple of hours birding. We met at 6am and walked along the entrance road a short way, where luckily we had a couple sightings of Little Chachalaca as it flew over us on several occasions. And then we headed for the white sand forest and our latest battle with Pelzeln’s Tody-tyrant. Well the bird won again and some of the group headed to the Capuchinbird lek site and enjoyed fantastic views of up to 8 birds, whilst myself, Chris and David stayed on for more punishment with Mr Pelzeln’s. However, this time after a protracted wait we actually saw the little bugger and returned to the dining area for a hearty breakfast in high spirits. That just left a quick shower, pack and load the minibus for the 90 minute drive back to Manaus. Dropping the guys off at the airport and then into the airport hotel for lunch and a nice long rest to prepare ourselves for the exciting days to come at Amazonia National Park.

Day 11   AMAZONIA NATIONAL PARK EXTENSION

With the main tour over it was time for the exciting extension to Amazonia National Park, which entailed a short 1h 15 mins flight to Itaituba where we arrived at 10.30am, met our driver and local guide Gilberto and drove just over an hour along a rather bumpy road to Pousada Portal Lodge. It was definitely hotter here but less humid thankfully and after dropping our bags into our rooms we had a quick look around the gardens that adjoin the huge Rio Tapajos. We were pleased to see White-banded and Black-collared Swallows flying around in front of us, and we scoped a Black Caracara across the river as well. After lunch we sat discussing the possibilities that lay ahead and noted Yellow-bellied Elaenia and Glittering-bellied Emerald in the trees in front of us before retiring to our rooms for a siesta.

We were off at 3.30pm and driving under half an hour to the Acalzal Trail where we began walking into the forest, seeing a Great Jacamar almost immediately. Nearby a pair of superb Spix’s Warbling Antbirds responded almost immediately to the tape and we enjoyed nice looks at them before continuing our walk. At a shady section of canopy we got to grips initially with a White-eyed Stipplethroat before Pablo declared that there was also a pair of  Ornate Stipplethroats above us as well. We spent quite a while getting to grips with both species although mainly getting underpart views made it decidedly tricky. Within a hundred metres Gilberto was pointing to a looping vine not far away that had an absolutely awesome Rufous-necked Puffbird perched on it. Wow! But the best was yet to come as a bit further on an Alta Floresta Antpitta began calling, so we knuckled down for a game of cat-and-mouse which was eventually rewarded with everyone getting eyeballs on this absolute stonker!  So by now it was 5.45pm and we headed back to the road, stopping along the way when a pair of Plain-throated Antwrens appeared and an Elegant Woodcreeper was spotted, along with a pair of Red-stained Woodpeckers to round off a brilliant bit of afternoon trail birding.

Out on the main park road we called in to the HQ to register our permits and took in the amazing view across the Rio Tapajos, before checking out a marshy area at dusk where a colony of Olive Oropendolas were present in a large tree. There was also a pair of Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, and a Short-tailed Nighthawk flew over us. We celebrated our antpitta success tonight with Caipirinhas and beer before calling it a night.

Day 12   AMAZONIA NATIONAL PARK   

Our first full day in Amazonia National Park was one we all looked forward to immensely. And after a 5am breakfast we were soon in the bus and off up the road into the park, however things didn’t quite go according to plan as the bus broke down. Whilst the driver fitted a new cam belt I played a few random owl calls and amazingly called in a pair of Spectacled Owls who posed beautifully in a large cecropia tree on the slope above us. After around half an hour we were on our way once more and as the day got lighter we saw a pair of Razor-billed Curassows walking along the side of the road, and shortly after Gilberto spotted a group of White-crested Guans in a tree next to the road. So we all jumped out and had superb views of up to 3 individuals. Upon arrival at the Capelinha Trail, which is the farthest of the trails visited, we began walking and spent a good couple of hours seeing some very, very good birds before the ridiculous noise from the cicadas made it impossible to hear any birdsong! Anyway, we got proceedings under way with a Spot-winged Antshrike high in the canopy over the trail, followed by a pair of Spix’s Warbling Antbirds, before walking briskly to a stake-out for Black-bellied Gnateater. Upon arrival, Gilberto proceeded to set up a temporary blind before playing the call once. And in popped the bird. And what a beast! Think of a gnateatear and you immediately picture a tiny round ball of feathers difficult to pick up in the gloomy understorey. Not this beast as its huge and obvious and sat out in the open for a good few minutes, moving from exposed perch to exposed perch for us before exiting stage left and leaving us with happy, smiley, gormless faces!  Buoyed with our success we continued walking further into the forest , seeing bits and pieces such as Broad-billed Motmot, White-fronted Nunbird until we crossed a small stream and Gilberto pointed out a totally awesome White-browed Hawk perched above us. What a bird! At this point the cicada noise grew incredibly loud prompting Pablo to suggest we go elsewhere and our return hike to the bus was enlivened with a Long-tailed Woodcreeper and another Rufous-necked Puffbird.

So we drove to the Park HQ to look for Flame-crowned Manakin, which took all of 5 minutes to find and then wandered along a trail for a little way not expecting to find much in the heat. But a Natterer’s Slaty Antshrike was called in, along with a Ruddy Spinetail at the same spot. And then we became aware there was a fruiting tree next to us and stacks of birds began flying in. Some noisy Dusky-chested Flycatchers were joined by Ochre-bellied, Yellow-breasted and a Streaked Flycatcher, a Forest Elaenia, a Red-legged Honeycreeper appeared, 3 gorgeous Red-necked Aracari’s flew in, an immature Spangled Cotingaappeared, and 3 Santarem Parakeets were spotted quietly feeding right above us. The last new bird here was a White-necked Jacobin before we decided to return to the lodge for lunch. What a morning!

If anything, we raised the quality level this afternoon beginning with a pair of Brown-chested Barbets perched high up above us along a trail, with a Gould’s Toucanet at the same spot. Just around the corner a Banded Antbird performed admirably right in front of us, an Elegant Woodcreeper flew in and then things got really interesting. A Harlequin Antbird began calling just up ahead and we walked off the trail and tried to make ourselves a little more inconspicuous. After a short wait we located it calling away from a horizontal branch amongst some leafy bushes about 30 feet away. Wow! As we walked back to the bus Vulturine Parrot called from high up in the canopy and after a bit of manoeuvring we had excellent views of this speciality. Back out on the road we had a Dark-billed Cuckoo and Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, before dropping into another side trail where Amazonian Antpitta popped up onto some horizontal vines right in front of us in the fading light and by the nearby bridge a Rufescent Tiger-Heron was stood beside a small waterfall. I can tell you we celebrated with a few caipirinhas this evening!

Day 13   AMAZONIA NATIONAL PARK

We birded the Gameleira Trail this morning, arriving at the viewpoint overlooking the Rio Tapajos at sunrise, which was rather spectacular.  As soon as we entered the trail a White-crested Guan was seen in a large tree showing well in the sunlight. Once we had walked in further we came across a flock that held Saturnine Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren, a few Rufous-rumped Foliage-Gleaners, an Amazonian Trogon, a very brief Xingu Scale-backed Antbird, Plain-throated Antwren and Yellow-throated Woodpecker. We spent quite some time with this group before walking on until we heard some Golden Parakeets flying over. Quick as ever, Pablo fired off the call and the birds seemed to have perched up nearby as we could still hear one or two calls. After a few minutes of walking quietly closer we came directly beneath the tree we thought they were in and through a few small gaps in the canopy could see some incredibly bright yellow blobs above us. And there they were. Wow! Golden Parakeetsin all their glory and what a stunner! Moving on we had Rufous Motmot, Plumbeous Pigeon, some Red-necked Aracaris, Green-backed Trogon, Chestnut Woodpecker, Rusty-belted Tapaculo and a cracking Snow-capped Manakin before walking back towards the entrance of the trail. The return walk gave us Long-winged Antwren, Spix’s Warbling Antbird, Reddish Hermit, White-flanked Antwren, Cinereous Antshrike, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant and a female Fiery-tailed Awlbill. What a morning. Amazonia National Park really is the gift that keeps on giving.

We spent the afternoon along the Trans-Amazonica Highway looking for fruiting trees and potential sites to stake-out for White-tailed Cotinga. No cotingas were forthcoming but we did find a large fruiting tree that we watched for several hours, during which time we saw our one and only Red-headed Manakin, and our first Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Black-necked Aracari. Other species coming in to feed included Spangled Cotinga, Dusky-chested Flycatcher, Channel-billed Toucan, many Blue-headed Parrots, Gould’s Toucanet and Santarem Parakeets. We also noted flyby Scarlet Macaws and Southern Mealy Amazons, with a group of White-crested Guans feeding in another tree just a short distance along the road. A spot of owling on the return journey to the lodge resulted in fantastic views of Southern Tawny-bellied Screech-Owlto round off another superb day in Amazonia National Park.

Day 14   AMAZONIA NATIONAL PARK

A slow morning really as we birded along another trail. It began brightly with some calling Green-winged (Dark-winged) Trumpeters that some of us saw in the early morning gloom. A Hoffmanns’s Woodcreeper followed, along with Elegant Woodcreeper, Cinereous Antshrike and a Long-winged Antwren. A calling Cryptic Forest-Falcon remained just a voice in the distance unfortunately. We walked quite a way before getting brief looks at Black-spotted Bare-eye, and I think only I saw a Rufous-capped Antthrush but a little further on a stonking Collared Puffbird was tracked down way above us in the canopy of some really tall trees. Further on, at a clearing where we could look across the valley, we saw Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Gould’s Toucanet, Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper, some soaring Swallow-tailed and Plumbeous Kites and a distant Golden-green Woodpecker. Reaching the end of the trail it was a relief to see we had rejoined the road from a different place and didn’t have to retrace our steps many kilometres. We drove down to one of the bridges and scanned the surrounding area from the shade and were lucky to see a bunch of new birds for the trip beginning with a group of Bare-necked Fruitcrows, followed by Masked Tityra, Pied Puffbird, Epaulet Oriole and Rufous-bellied Euphonia, with another much closer female Fiery-tailed Awlbill. We do love a bit of padding!

After lunch and a siesta we got on a boat and sailed across the Rio Tapajos where we visited several small islands. The first island gave us the local subspecies (and soon to be split) Blackish-grey Antshrike, a pair of which showed really well. Flame-crowned Manakin, Striped Woodcreeper and Amazonian Streaked Antwren followed. The second island was birdless so we sailed to a third where we scanned from the sandy beach.  Some terns could be seen downriver so Bart and I sailed down to get close to our first Yellow-billed Tern sat amongst some Large-billed Terns and Black Skimmers. Sailing back to join the guys we passed a small island where around 40+ Sand-coloured Nighthawks were roosting and took flight as we passed by in spectacular fashion. We got the others and returned, only to find a rare Southern Martin had been seen by them, but we all had close views of the nighthawks and as we headed back across the river to the lodge passed a tree dripping with Grey-breasted Martins. They all took flight and unbelievably another Southern Martin flew right across in front of us. The light out on the river was extraordinarily beautiful this evening and it was a pleasure just being out on a boat in the Amazon! Back ashore some Turquoise Tanagers were seen, as well as our first Speckled Chachalacas. After dinner we called in a Tropical Screech-Owl to round off the day’s proceedings.

Day 15   AMAZONIA NATIONAL PARK - MANAUS

Our final trail hike of the tour took us along the Tracoa Trail, which proved to be a little slow. It took a while to actually see any birds at all and there wasn’t much calling at all for ages. Eventually, we tracked down a calling Barred Forest-Falcon, followed by a cracking Amazonian Antshrike, Striped Woodcreeper, Band-tailed Antbird, Dot-winged Antwren and Glossy Antshrike along a pretty productive section of trail. Walking back and we saw a fantastic Long-billed Woodcreeper very well, but a Hauxwell’s Thrush just flew around us without perching in the open at all. A short while later a Rose-breasted Chat did the same frustrating thing, whilst a Long-tailed Hermit appeared. But we didn’t go out with a whimper as we had a pair of Moustached Wrens, Long-billed Gnatwren at point-blank range and ended the tour with nice views of Amazonian Antpitta again (incredible huh). All that remained was to return to the lodge, shower, pack and have lunch before loading the luggage onto the bus and driving back to Itaituba. Here we had a private charter 9-seat Sessna plane to take us back to Manaus. The flight took around 85 minutes and flew the entire journey over the Amazonian rainforest, which was only broken up by numerous rivers, lakes and side channels making for a fascinating and eye-opening journey. Upon arrival at our hotel in Manaus we shared one final beer together before departing our separate ways.